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<blockquote data-quote="skeller047" data-source="post: 628822" data-attributes="member: 9069">Thanks guys for your comments.&nbsp;&nbsp; In this particular case, I can’t use the wedge idea since the bumper stop for the key (what I would wedge) is under the touch, and getting rid of the touch is the point for me.&nbsp; If I could just reverse spring the pad (like used to be done on the alternate Eb toneholes on old horns), I’d have already done it and wouldn’t have started this thread.&nbsp; But alas, all the mechanical bits like spring and bumper are on the key touch part of the mechanism.&nbsp;&nbsp; I don’t care about a metal disc per se.&nbsp;&nbsp; Plastic, metal, cork, wood, leather, whatever does the job of capping the tonehole is fine.&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; While I understand that soldering is the best choice for long term stability, and a perfect seal, but that’s a non-starter for me.&nbsp;&nbsp; I want a reversible solution with minimal cosmetic damage.This week I will attempt to make a 3D printed cap that fits over the tonehole, covering not just the top edge, but made with a groove, and thus hugging the inside and outside of the chimney.&nbsp; Whether that gets glued in place, or can be held with a set screw, I haven’t decided.&nbsp;&nbsp; I think a silicone rubber or neoprene gasket in the groove, and perhaps a second gasket on the inside part, like an O-ring, will take care of the sealing part. I will take photos, and share my experience.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="skeller047, post: 628822, member: 9069"] Thanks guys for your comments. In this particular case, I can’t use the wedge idea since the bumper stop for the key (what I would wedge) is under the touch, and getting rid of the touch is the point for me. If I could just reverse spring the pad (like used to be done on the alternate Eb toneholes on old horns), I’d have already done it and wouldn’t have started this thread. But alas, all the mechanical bits like spring and bumper are on the key touch part of the mechanism. I don’t care about a metal disc per se. Plastic, metal, cork, wood, leather, whatever does the job of capping the tonehole is fine. While I understand that soldering is the best choice for long term stability, and a perfect seal, but that’s a non-starter for me. I want a reversible solution with minimal cosmetic damage. This week I will attempt to make a 3D printed cap that fits over the tonehole, covering not just the top edge, but made with a groove, and thus hugging the inside and outside of the chimney. Whether that gets glued in place, or can be held with a set screw, I haven’t decided. I think a silicone rubber or neoprene gasket in the groove, and perhaps a second gasket on the inside part, like an O-ring, will take care of the sealing part. I will take photos, and share my experience. [/QUOTE]

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