Roo Pad Re-pad

[AlanU]

I agree Mike, about having a go if you think you have some aptitude, and it is on an instrument you're reasonably familiar with. If not, leave it to a professional.

Oboe, flute, clarinet, bassoon? I wouldn't feel confident about working on any of them.
Professional instrument repairers, of course, also undertake work on really valuable instruments, that belong to someone else!
I only have myself to answer to.

 

[Rodzart]

I have just replaced the pads on my yas-23, using white roo pads.

I took several photos through the diss-assembly stages, this helped a lot later sorting the parts and order of assembly.
Had to float some pads after and carefully got through adjustments and cork thickness a couple of times.
All was sucessful,will load some photos later,
Rod.

 

[Rodzart]

Some photo's of re-pad,






Rod

 

[AlanU]

Great, the pictures are much better than mine.

Having done the job myself, as an amateur, I'll be interested in your experience of it.

So you've got it back playing now?
How does it feel?

Mine is so much more positive. When the pads close, they close!
I think that some of this is due to the leather seeming to be tighter wrapped over the backing, and with less cushioning.
But the source of the skin and its inherent properties are the real difference.

There is no 'squidge' or uncertainty in feel.
Right from new they didn't show any sign of sticking.
Play, use the pull-through and look after your instrument before you put it to bed, and next time everything is fine.

No hesitation with pads that are spring closed, like the lower Eb, or G*.
Nothing sticks!

What would I use next time?

 

[Rodzart]

Yes , its all finished and playing again.
It definitely feels more responsive and easier to blow. As a beginner that helps a great deal.
This was my first re pad , I used to be a tv tech , now retired . Since childhood I always loved taking everything apart even though many never got back together. Thats my qualification 🙂
As you said thanks to the very precisely made YAS-23 the job was made easier.
I used shellac with a butane burner with a very small focused flame.
The amount of shellac used was critical, not enough and the pad didn't float and position well, too much and it squished out the side. I tended on the lean side and some pads I removed and added a touch more shellac.
I replaced all of the corks , then sanded to adjust height after. Although the 23 has planty of fine adjustment screws that made life easier. Ran through the set up about three times before I was happy with the result. As each setting affects others.
Knowledge came from articles at Musicmedic, I read all several times. Numerous photos helped with rebuild helping to recognise each part and placement.
I'm pleased with the result and thoroughly enjoyed the experience, would not hesitate to try another providing that I owned the sax,

Rod.

 

[AlanU]

Rod, did you find an increase in volume/resonance/power, however you'd describe it?
I certainly did.

Although this will be partly due to the poor condition of the previous pads.
In my case the difference was a real shock. I'd just expected a firmer response, less tendency to stick etc.
I'm still getting used to it, and wondering whether I should have used pads without resonators?

 

[Rodzart]

Hi Alan,
The tone was louder after the repad. But I found it was easier to also play softly. Removal of all leaks probably helped.

What did you use for a leak light. I made up one using 3 super bright LED's from Dick Smith powered by 3 AAA batteries on a long lead. Worked very well,

Rod

 

[AlanU]

Rod, I bought a mains one from www.musicmedic.com along with the pads, Teflon sheet and a few tools, bumper felts and some shellac sticks.
Great service, it all arrived from North Carolina to North London in about a week.

Strangely though, I've crawled all over their site and can't find that they sell springs! Maybe I'm just being a bit dim.

As I've said, my Martin stencil has really been dramatically transformed.
I'm about to embark on re-building a Hawkes & Son alto and have doubts about fitting pads that will alter it's character.
Currently it has pads with plastic resonators, a couple with metal ones, a few pads with rivets at the centre and some that are just plain leather!
I imagine that originally it had plain pads with no embellishments, and am tempted to go down that path, but I'm still undecided.
I don't think I'll use Roopads, but I'm not sure whether to go for any type of reflectors.

 

[Rodzart]

I also purchased my pads from Musicmedic, great delivery service to New Zealand as well.
They seem to only sell springs in their complete repair kits,

Rod

 

[AlanU]

Yes, so it's not me after all.

Odd isn't it.
All that advice, the specialist tools, the variety of pads with all kinds of reflectors, shellac etc.
And no springs!