I've used one
The problem is that such a material would be too pliable - at least at the full thickness of the pad. But merely as a face it might have potential - or at least something like it.
I've used one
The problem with using such a soft substance as a replacement for leather is that it needs to be of a certain thickness in order to take advantage of any capacity it might have to deform and adapt to a potential leak. This tends to lend the key a rather squishy feel - and such substances usually don't have very good wear resistance.I thought just to replace the leather on a pad
I don't think so. The tone hole chimney in this case is drawn up from the metal of the tube. A few older saxes (and the Powell Eagle I think) had the chimneys as a completely separate part that was soldered onto the body.
I haven't - and I don't think it would be economically feasible.Anybody seen a sax with soldered on (silver, hard or soft) toneles with rolled tone holes? I haven't. RTH seems to be on saxes with extruded ("drawn", hammered out, pull) toneholes.
That made me chuckle - given how many times I've stripped a rolled tonehole horn, placed a flat standard over the holes and thought "Oh gawd..."Do'nt know about whether rolled tone holes make any difference to playability, tone or intonation, but I feel that from an aesthetics and engineering view, the rolled edge looks as though somebody took the effort to finish the job and not just leave a raw cut off edge.
Nearly all tone holes were uneven in the 20's and early 30's?!?!?! That's why Conn had Res-O-Pad, Buescher had "Snap-On " Martin "Neverleaks, Buescher and Conn didn't use shellack. A self leveling system? The pads were more to compensate for uneven toneholes. Another pad system on a Kohlert model 1927 straight soprano. No shellack. A very thick pad with screw and washer.That made me chuckle - given how many times I've stripped a rolled tonehole horn, placed a flat standard over the holes and thought "Oh gawd..."
Reading that I thought could the sax be completely redesigned using micro switches under the finger touches connected to electro magnets to close the pads with a spring to open them or as appropriate break the circuit to allow the pad to open with a spring to close it. This would do away with all those messy connecting rods and bits of regulating cork and make the action a lot quicker as there would be minimal finger movement.Shootin' the breeze, I'd suggest that some sort of 'active' seal would be an improvement. I can't actually think of a way of doing this off the top of my head, but it would imagine some sort of flexible magnetic seal would be an option - though you'd have to go some to balance the springing so that the magnetic field didn't slow the keywork down.