Re-attaching a post

[stefank]

I've had a post come off the venerable collection of re-solders and dent repairs that is my Martin Indiana alto. Should I be able to get it re-attached with the aid of some solder and a little gas torch/soldering iron (positioning it does not seem to be a problem), or is it take it to the tech time?

 

[Pete Thomas]

I've had a post come off the venerable collection of re-solders and dent repairs that is my Martin Indiana alto. Should I be able to get it re-attached with the aid of some solder and a little gas torch/soldering iron (positioning it does not seem to be a problem), or is it take it to the tech time?

If it was me, I'd worry about all the other posts dropping off as soon as the body got hot enough.

 

[thomsax]

If you know how to solder you can do it yourself. The toneholes on a Indiana is softsoldered so bevare that the heat from the tourch is not to high. I can do some soldering but my friend, a former metalworker for the surgical medical industry, is far better. So I let him do all soldering.

Thomas

 

[johnboy]

Hi stefank, don't take the risk!!!!!!! I wouldn't (you would probably need heat sinks), and I used to do a lot of soldering and brazing.

John.

 

[jonf]

If you really want to do it (and I wouldn't, despite being able to solder) make sure you practice a good few times on some scrap brass first.

 

[stefank]

Thanks all, I shall heed your advice!

 

[jonf]

If you do it yourself, remember to let us know how you get on.

Jon

 

[stefank]

If you do it yourself, remember to let us know how you get on.

Jon

I'm chickening out. At heart I'm just a great big wimp.

 

[kevgermany]

I'm chickening out. At heart I'm just a great big wimp.

Sensible. Lst thing you want is other posts or toneholes coming off...

 

[rhysonsax]

I used to have a great "The Martin" baritone from the 50s and various bits used to pop off at unpredictable times: a few posts and a guard I think.

And I also have a Martin from the 40s that is stencilled as an Old Super and the neck tenon came off when it was being repaired.

I wonder whether Martin used a type of solder that is particularly prone to failing - maybe to do with their soldered-on toneholes ?

Rhys

 

[jonf]

I'm chickening out. At heart I'm just a great big wimp.

Me too. That's why I said I would do it, despite being reasonably competent at soldering.

 

[thomsax]

I used to have a great "The Martin" baritone from the 50s and various bits used to pop off at unpredictable times: a few posts and a guard I think.

And I also have a Martin from the 40s that is stencilled as an Old Super and the neck tenon came off when it was being repaired.

I wonder whether Martin used a type of solder that is particularly prone to failing - maybe to do with their soldered-on toneholes ?

Rhys

I have some Marin saxes and it’s just my ”The Martin Baritone” that have one (1) resoldered post. My other Martins are clean when it comes to this. In fact I think Martins are very wellmade.

Martins toneholes are softsoldered (lower temperature) instead of hard/silversoldered. I don’t know why Martin used this method. Most of the manufactors (King, Beuscher, Tonkng(CZ).... ) that had soldered-on toneholes that were silversoldered. Just a few (two?) manufactors used softsolder. I think it has something to do with the shape of a Martin chimney, I/we think it’s harder and more time-consuming to resolder a Martin tonehole with silversoldering compared to softsoldering. I have also heard that Martin changed the solder formula in the 50’s for work enviroment reasons.

This is my own thoughts and the information is not confirmed. So take it for what it is!

Thomas

 

[phooesnax]

DO NOT do it! If you overheat the area all of the posts will drop off and/or move slightly. When they put these on they hold them all with a jig.