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Buescher C Melody stuck keys

Royston

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1922 Buescher C Melody
1616709709721.jpeg




I’m a sucker for a pretty face. Recently bought this, via an auction house, sight unseen (physically that is) due to COVID regulations.

Didn’t really want to spend a lot on it really but might have to. Any advice apart from take it to a tech would be much appreciated. ( Long term project )

The bell with gold wash is beautiful and the rest is mainly just heavily tarnished which I’m working on.

The main issue is all the keys are seized, I think, to the pillars. B,A,G close together but not independently. Same with D,E and F. Also when l close bottom stack DEF, BAG close aswell.

Slot screw in rod on top stack buggered.

Any ideas on loosening they keys so they close independently. I’ve tried WD 40 fast release penetrating oil and WD 40 degreaser plus heat, to no avail. If rod needs to be drilled out any ideas where can I get a replacement?

Thanks in advance.
 
Solution
They do these at B&Q in 2.5 and 3 mm. Would they be suitable do you think?
Those are the ones I have - they'll be just fine.
If you carry on repairing for any length of time you'll probably amass a fair collection of screwdrivers. Extra long ones that allow you to bend the shaft around obstructions; swivel-head drivers; stubby ones etc. It's all about what feels comfortable in the hands and what works best for you.
And with the aid of a grinder (even a drill-mounted arbor job) you can tailor the tips how you please.

CK do a nice set of changeable blade drivers, which come in handy for those times when you encounter small screws (flat springs, adjusters etc.) that have Philips or...

Stephen Howard

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Just picked up the dremel blow torch from screwfix. Looks a very nice piece of kit. Ordered on line. Pick up in store. They insist on photo ID and that you wear a mask. :confused:
Great bit of kit. I recommend filling the underside of the base with Araldite. Makes it a little more stable on the workbench and prevents the base from cracking when you drop the thing on the floor.
There are a few other mods you can do; if you take the top apart you can shift the gas regulator lever round a couple of notches - reduces the intensity of the largest flame and gives you a more useful smaller flame at the other end of the scale. You can also remove the guts of the safety switch to make it more of a one-handed operation to switch it on - though this is best coupled with a small extension piece to the sliding switch on the side.
And don't skimp on the quality of the gas you use.
 
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Royston

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Any more ideas please. The B and A keys are now working but the G needs a lot of pressure to seal and is sort of rubbery. I think the rod isn’t stuck as I can close the keys by turning it with a screwdriver but can’t ratchet it like suggested. Can anyone pinpoint where I need to be looking at to release it please.
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PigSquealer

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You shouldn’t be able to turn the key with the screwdriver at all. It sounds like it is stuck on the shaft.
I highlighted in yellow the section you are describing in association to the red key circle. Picture I’m showing you is actually what it looks like with and without the rod installed. My red arrow. This should not turn with any keys. No Rod ever turns with a Key !
being spongy tells me something is out of regulation or bent. You need to fix the stuck problem first. Keep soaking it.
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65EF0898-BDBC-4F13-A8E2-A9E245A259A6.jpeg
76F882D4-2CE9-47CC-8267-8175A0E1A6F6.jpeg
 
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Royston

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You shouldn’t be able to turn the key with the screwdriver at all. It sounds like it is stuck on the shaft.
I highlighted in yellow the section you are describing in association to the red key circle. Picture I’m showing you is actually what it looks like with and without the rod installed. My red arrow. This should not turn with any keys. No Rod ever turns with a Key !
being spongy tells me something is out of regulation or bent. You need to fix the stuck problem first. Keep soaking it.
View attachment 17943 View attachment 17944 View attachment 17945

Thanks
I follow it now. I was thinking the wrong way round.
Showing the pieces separately really helps as I now know the end result I’m looking for.
Will keep soaking.
Brilliant.
Thanks again
 
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Stephen Howard

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Keep at it with the heat. You now know what the problem is (assuming all other keys move freely??) - so get some proper heat on both ends of the G key.
 
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turf3

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I'm pretty sure the 6M octave train has one key that pivots and carries a rod upon which another key pivots - so the rod does rotate with the first key. I don't think it's "locked" other than having the usual shoulder that you screw it down against.
 
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Stephen Howard

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I'm pretty sure the 6M octave train has one key that pivots and carries a rod upon which another key pivots - so the rod does rotate with the first key. I don't think it's "locked" other than having the usual shoulder that you screw it down against.
There's only one rod screw on the 6M mech - which runs through the thumb and body octave key barrels.
There is another pivot - but this is two point screws into a solid key barrel.
 
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PigSquealer

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Showing the pieces separately really helps as I now know the end result I’m looking for.
Well I guess you wouldn know what’s stuck if you’re not sure how it is supposed to move.
I’ve loosely assembled upper and lower stack. This will show you the separation areas.
image.jpg
image.jpg
Keep soaking ! Everything !
1919391E-8646-446C-89F0-A86BA423CCB2.jpeg
 
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Royston

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Great
Thanks
Will continue soaking.
Well I guess you wouldn know what’s stuck if you’re not sure how it is supposed to move.
I’ve loosely assembled upper and lower stack. This will show you the separation areas. View attachment 17947 View attachment 17948 Keep soaking ! Everything !
View attachment 17946

I think it’s gonna be a saw job.
I’ve heated and soaked over and over again day in and day out but not a sign of budging.
 
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PigSquealer

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I think it’s gonna be a saw job.
I’ve heated and soaked over and over again day in and day out but not a sign of budging.
Can you identify any section that is stuck? Look straight down the rod/posts. Can you see one that is knocked out of alignment. It could be binding. If everything else is moving freely that one section could be your issue.
Refer to the picture in post 110. Sections of the first picture and the lower half of the last picture. There are posts between the sections. It’s not just a matter of sawing one end off. It may be best to remove the end post where the screw slot is. Grab the end with a mole pliers and gently twist it out. There’s no guarantee it will come loose. These types of events can be a real pain.

Here’s a picture of the section posts with the hinge rod in.
5A28B2C8-7AF2-474C-B449-DB246A6D0E48.jpeg
 
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Stephen Howard

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Looks like we might be getting to the more serious stage.
If it comes to cutting a key off you really only have one option (unless you make more than one cut) - and that's the B key.
It'll need to be cut where it meets the Aux.B key - after which the B key can be carefully bent forward and upward. and then slid off the rod screw. The stub remaining in the Aux key can then be tapped in, which will allow you to get a pair of pliers around the slot end and pull it out.
Meantime, you'll now have an inch or so of rod sticking out from where the B key used to be - so you'll be able to get some good leverage on it.
 
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Royston

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Looks like we might be getting to the more serious stage.
If it comes to cutting a key off you really only have one option (unless you make more than one cut) - and that's the B key.
It'll need to be cut where it meets the Aux.B key - after which the B key can be carefully bent forward and upward. and then slid off the rod screw. The stub remaining in the Aux key can then be tapped in, which will allow you to get a pair of pliers around the slot end and pull it out.
Meantime, you'll now have an inch or so of rod sticking out from where the B key used to be - so you'll be able to get some good leverage on it.
Looks like I need to order a jewellers saw then
:eek:
 
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Stephen Howard

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That'll do nicely.

And just in case you didn't know, the blades are fitted with the teeth facing backwards (towards the handle) rather than the usual forward facing presentation.
 
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